Lord’s Rake, West Wall Traverse & Deep Ghyll: Into Scafell’s Wild Side

bootsandbanter
25 minutes ago
9 min read

Then Onto Foxes Tarn Gully, Mickledore, Scafell Pike & Lingmell

Date: 15 August 2026

📍 Route: Wasdale Head > Lord’s Rake > West Wall Traverse > Deep Ghyll > Symonds Knott > Scafell > Foxes Tarn Gully > Mickledore > Scafell Pike > Lingmell > Wasdale Head📏 Distance: 16.64 km

⬆️ Ascent: 1,371 m

⌛ Time: 8.5 h

Weather: Clear, sunny, warm and dry

Mood: Excited, focused, slightly apprehensive, then absolutely buzzing

Lord’s Rake, the West Wall Traverse and Deep Ghyll form one of the most adventurous ways of reaching Scafell from Wasdale. The route leaves the busy path to Scafell Pike behind and heads into the dramatic crags of Scafell, climbing the steep and notoriously loose Lord’s Rake before crossing the exposed West Wall Traverse and disappearing into Deep Ghyll. From there the route climbs through the ghyll itself before finally bursting out onto the open plateau of Scafell. It is generally graded as a Grade 1 scramble, although the steepness, exposure and loose rock make it feel considerably more serious than the grade might suggest. It is also a route that requires concentration, particularly when there are people above or below you.

For me, though, this wasn't simply another route to tick off. I'd first spotted this part of Scafell from Lingmell after finishing my Wainwrights last October, and from that moment I wanted to know what was actually hiding in those cliffs.

A Route Worth Waiting For

A picture taken from Lingmell later that day. Pretty good view of the route

I wanted to do this famous route ever since I finished the Wainwrights on Lingmell in October 2025. I remember coming down from Lingmell, full of emotions after standing on my 214th Wainwright, already scanning the face of Broad Stand and trying to make out where Lord's Rake, the West Wall Traverse and Deep Ghyll actually were. I couldn't make it out. At that point I'd only watched a few YouTube videos and hadn't seen a single photo that clearly showed the line.

I came back to the area over the May Bank Holiday earlier this year with every intention of doing the route. However, when I reached the turn for Lord's Rake off the main path to Mickledore, the whole rock face and everything around me disappeared into thick clag. I didn't want that to be my experience of this route, so I carried on to Mickledore and sat on a rock above it, hoping the cloud would clear. Eventually it did, just long enough to give me a glimpse of the route. I knew I'd be back one day.

Well, 15 August was that day.

The Road I Used to Hate

The six climbers ahead (they would turn left at the top of the scree, I would turn right)

The day started with a drive along the road I used to hate. I'll mention this one last time and then I'll get on with how things are now...promise.

After my Scottish single-track road baptism during the four-day trip last month, the road down to Wasdale Head Inn just isn't what it used to be. I didn't have the slightest heart palpitations. Not even a flutter in my stomach. Nothing. I stopped for caravans, reversed for cars, carried on my way. Not a flutter. If anything, I felt a little nostalgic. What has happened to me? 😂 It's like I've said goodbye to a very old friend.

I parked up, got my gear on and set off just after 8 am. The sky was completely clear, not a cloud to be seen. Having been here three months earlier, I already knew exactly where I'd leave the crowds behind, something I was really looking forward to.

The tourist path was busy, as always. Four climbers turned right at the top of Brown Tongue, then me, then another two climbers. I overheard people stopping the pair behind me asking, "Is this the way to Scafell Pike?" They were very quickly discouraged from following. 😂

In a parallel universe I'm also a climber and turning off there to tackle the Pinnacle. In this universe I can only dream of that.

Lord's Rake

I took my backpack off beside the large boulder where the turn for Lord's Rake is made and waited for all the climbers to go ahead. They would turn left to climb the Pinnacle, I would turn right for Lord's Rake.

One thing that surprises is that the view of Lord's Rake is completely hidden from the main path. You'd never know what was tucked away behind the rocks.

The scree slope leading to the foot of the rake is hard going, although it's only around 250 to 280 metres. The start of Lord's Rake itself is a narrow, steep stone chute between Deep Gill Buttress on the left and Shamrock on the right. It looked eroded, steep and rather loose.

I kept to the right all the way up, using the rocks along the wall as handholds. Even here you had to test almost every hold because quite a few of them were loose. You really don't want to grab something that decides to stay in your hand instead of the mountain.

To be honest, out of the whole route this was probably my least favourite section. Thankfully it was over fairly quickly.

West Wall Traverse

The turn onto the West Wall Traverse, left at the huge boulder, is pretty obvious, especially if you've watched as many YouTube videos beforehand as I had.

Straight away it looked more interesting than Lord's Rake. The start is fairly steep but the ground felt more enjoyable, even if the loose rock continued in places. Every handhold still had to be checked before committing your weight to it.

For me, the West Wall Traverse was the highlight of the three sections. A narrow ledge, plenty of exposure, spectacular views and just enough excitement to keep you fully focused. I honestly could have spent much longer there.

One thing I haven't mentioned is that there was nobody in front of me and nobody behind me. How amazing is it that you're only a few hundred metres away from one of the busiest mountain paths in England and yet you feel completely alone? I couldn't even hear the climbers somewhere below me.

There's always a sense of trepidation when I'm on a new route, especially one that requires concentration and where so much of it is unknown. So although I was enjoying every minute of the traverse, Deep Ghyll was already occupying my thoughts.

Deep Ghyll

Being my first time on the West Wall Traverse, I wasn't quite sure where it finished and where Deep Ghyll began. In reality it's obvious. The traverse curves around before suddenly revealing the lower part of the ghyll.

The traverse ends almost abruptly on a ledge overlooking it, with a loose path dropping into the ghyll itself. There is a very narrow ledge here and it definitely deserves respect. To your left is simply a sheer drop into Deep Ghyll.

The first thing that came out of my mouth when I looked UP was:

"Oh no...it's so loose, and so steep."

The climb continues directly up the bed of the ghyll. It's narrower than Lord's Rake, steeper and even looser. The rocks have the same reddish colour you see around Mickledore. Deep Gill Buttress rises on one side and the Pinnacle on the other.

I found myself constantly switching between the left and right sides of the gully, simply following whichever line looked the most stable. At one point I stepped over a larger rock and it immediately shot down the gully with an alarming amount of noise.

Doing this route in a group definitely needs careful thought.

Shortly afterwards, just below the large chockstone blocking the middle of the ghyll, I heard someone above me. Looking up, I couldn't quite believe it. A guy was descending Deep Ghyll!

I'd always heard it was rarely used and certainly not recommended as a descent route. He looked like a fell runner. We both stopped, he said he'd wait, I climbed over the chockstone and then waited for him to make his way carefully past before continuing. The last thing I wanted was to send rocks in his direction.

You really have to be there to appreciate just how easily rockfall could become a hazard in this place.

The upper section was wetter than below. I found myself muttering, "Wet...and loose."

Even the side holds had to be tested because plenty of them simply came away.

There are two exits from the ghyll, separated by a rock rib. The right-hand exit is wider but grassy, mossy and very wet. The left-hand exit is much narrower, rockier and has better holds, although it was wet too.

I'd already decided beforehand that I'd take the left.

Standing on top of Deep Ghyll looking down the exit route. Spot the person.

This is probably the only section I'd genuinely describe as Grade 1 scrambling. It feels almost like climbing up a narrow chimney. The holds are good, it's just tight and steep. Before you know it you're standing on top.

The contrast couldn't be greater. One moment you're inside this dark, loose, rocky, intimidating gully. The next you've emerged onto the broad grassy plateau of Scafell, dry, bright, open and peaceful. It genuinely felt like being born out of the belly of the mountain.

Looking back down the ghyll gave me a real sense of achievement. While I was there I spotted two guys making their way up. I filmed a short video for perspective and when the first guy reached the split where the two exits begin, I simply pointed towards the left and said, "That's the way."

The seasoned gully expert...all of five minutes qualified. 😂

Symonds Knott and Scafell

I chatted briefly with the two guys before they continued towards Scafell. I decided to make the short detour to Symonds Knott instead.

The views were superb. Skiddaw and Blencathra stood out beautifully in the distance, and from there the exit out of Deep Ghyll looked ridiculously steep.

After that I headed over to Scafell.

I absolutely love this summit. It's strikingly calm and always feels worlds apart from its neighbour, despite being only 14 metres lower.

Foxes Tarn Gully

Foxes Rake looking up from the start (end for me as I descended it)

From Scafell I descended towards Foxes Tarn. I'd never taken this path before.

The initial descent reminded me a lot of the Green How side of Scafell. Steep and scree-filled. This I've read is also described as Grade 1 scrambling.

I was actually looking forward to Foxes Tarn Gully. It's the route that allows walkers to pass between England's two highest mountains without going anywhere near Broad Stand.

I descended it, which I generally find more awkward than going up.

The route simply heads straight down. There are loose stones, slippery moss, boulders to climb down or around, but nothing felt as unstable as Lord's Rake or Deep Ghyll. There was really only one section near the bottom where the moss was particularly thick, so I deliberately avoided taking what looked like the quickest line to the bottom 😂.

Halfway down I spotted someone coming up, so I stopped and let them pass. Just like earlier in the day, it seemed the sensible thing to do. It would have been far too easy to send rocks in their direction otherwise.

You lose a surprising amount of height here, probably around 250 metres, so it's worth remembering that every metre has to be regained.

Mickledore, Scafell Pike and Lingmell

Crowded Scafell Pike, but smiling as I did such a good adventurous route

After Foxes Tarn Gully it was straight back up towards Mickledore.

For some reason I decided to leave the path near the top and make my own way up a ridiculously steep slope. I'm not entirely sure why. I suppose it looked like a shortcut.

This is exactly why I need a T-shirt that says "Do not follow me. I divert off paths for fun."

Not much needs saying about Scafell Pike. It was absolutely packed. I wandered away from the crowds, found a quiet spot overlooking Crinkle Crags and sat there for a while enjoying the view.

Then it was time for Lingmell. My final Wainwright from last October. I love this summit.

From there I had spectacular views back towards everything I'd done that morning. Lord's Rake, the West Wall Traverse and Deep Ghyll all stood out clearly. Looking across from Lingmell they appear almost impossibly steep, which somehow made the morning feel even more satisfying.

After a few videos and one last look back, I descended the quieter route off Lingmell main rib to Wasdale Head Inn for some well-earned food and a pint.

What a great day that was.

🔍 Final Thoughts

This route was everything I hoped it would be, and then some more. Lord's Rake was loose, Deep Ghyll was even looser and steeper, and the West Wall Traverse was easily my favourite section. It was challenging enough to keep me focused without ever feeling beyond me.

What made the day even better was having the whole route almost entirely to myself. Just a few hundred metres from one of the busiest paths in the Lake District, I felt completely removed from it all.

Standing on Lingmell at the end and looking back across at Scafell, I could finally see the lines I'd tried to work out from here last October. This time there was no clag hiding them.

I'd wanted to do this route for months, and after seeing it disappear into the cloud on my first attempt, I knew I'd come back for the right conditions.

It was absolutely worth the wait.