Helvellyn, Striding Edge & Swirral Edge

bootsandbanter
4 hours ago
7 min read

Sun, Rock, and a Very Good Ending

Date: 25 May 2026

📍Route: Glenridding car park > Birkhouse Moor > Striding Edge > Nethermost Pike > High Crag (Grisedale) > Helvellyn > Swirral Edge > Catstye Cam > Red Tarn > Glenridding car park

📏Distance: 20 km

⬆️Ascent: 1069 m

⌛Time: 7:45 h

Weather: Sunny, very sunny, hot

Mood: Sun-Fuelled and Sociable

Day 3 of 3 - Striding Edge and Sunshine

This was my last day of the first trip of the year, and the only one that actually followed my original plan for day 3. I wanted to finish the Bank Holiday weekend on a high. The forecast promised full sunshine all day, which in Lake District terms usually means either perfection or a trap. I checked out of the Globe Inn at Gosforth, or more accurately just left because there is no dramatic hotel checkout ceremony in real life, and started the 50-mile drive over to Glenridding.

Glenridding Start - Very Chatty Beginning

View towards Ullswater from Little Cove path above Glenridding

I managed to park at around 9 am. On a bank holiday Monday I was expecting a full car park by this time, but it all went smoothly.

The day started exactly how it continued, very chatty.

While I was faffing with my bag, applying sun cream, and doing the usual pre-hike ritual that somehow takes much longer than it should, a car pulled in next to me. The driver, Dylan, was heading off on an MTB route to Helvellyn and back. We started one of those instant conversations where it feels like you have known someone longer than 90 seconds. He even managed to snap a picture of us showing me his drone. After a quite lengthy chat while we were both getting ready, we eventually said goodbye and wished each other luck.

The chatting did not stop there. Two min later at the pay machine I ended up talking with an older German couple. At this point, hiking solo felt more like a theoretical concept than a reality. By 9:30 am I finally set off into full sun and already slightly more social interaction than planned.

Birkhouse Moor and Familiar Ground

The views opened - Striding Edge (left), Helvellyn (middle), Swirral Edge (right), Catstye Cam (far right)

I had last been here in August 2025, another hot and promising day. This time I decided to take the more standard route up, and not via Blea Cove towards Birkhouse Moor (see the unforgettable story about the ascend to Birkhouse Moor via Blea Cove here).

The engineered stone path up Little Cove reminded me strongly of the Scafell Pike motorway, except this one is less populated. Once on top I looked to the side and recognised exactly where I had crawl out from Blea Cove last time. Some places stay lodged in your brain permanently, usually the ones that had brought some trauma.

The views ahead opened up properly then, Striding Edge, Swirral Edge, Helvellyn, Catstye Cam. It is hard to argue with that line-up. It looked stunning as usual.

Barefoot Man and Munro Conversations

Just before Striding Edge a guy levelled with me, walking barefoot, carrying his shoes. Not something you see every day, absurd and impressive at the same time.

We started chatting. He was Scottish, so naturally the conversation drifted towards Munros within minutes. I know more about Munros from reading and watching videos than from actually doing them, which is a slightly suspicious ratio.

He carried on barefoot towards Striding Edge. "Barefoot on Striding Edge - aye, that’ll be right" sounds like a mountain myth someone tells in a pub. I paused to sort my GoPro chest mount. After taking the entire contents of my bag on the rocky top of the beginning of Striding Edge, I discovered the screw that attaches the camera to the chest strap was missing. No GoPro. A mild disappointment.

Striding Edge in Perfect Conditions

Striding Edge from the top of the first section (a lot of people seem to give this part a miss, to me it's possibly the most exciting part)

I decided to take Striding Edge slowly this time. No rushing, no ticking boxes, just enjoying it properly. Second time on it, and second time with perfect conditions, dry rock and barely any wind.

The first scrambly section before the main ridge is still my favourite, more jagged and interesting than the main ridge line. As previous time I could see people taking the bypass paths that run along the side of the ridge (on the Red Tarn/south side) that allow you to avoid much of the scrambling and exposure. I might one day do that too if the weather is not suitable for balancing on top.

I stopped often, filmed on my phone, and let people pass me in both directions. Very unlike my usual “efficient summit acquisition” behaviour. I was quite happy standing there not moving just observing.

At the Bad Step there was a bottleneck. I waited for a bit, nothing dramatic. A guy ahead spotting the woman in front of me offered to spot me too. I accepted, because it is easier when someone can just calmly say “left foot a little lower” instead of you negotiating with a rock face mid down climb. I faced toward the rock stepped down and it was done in seconds.

Behind me, another guy kept insisting it was easier to do it facing backwards (with back towards the rock). He also kept repeating this, as if trying to convert the entire mountain to his method. Each to their own.

After that I carried on the final steep rocky section that looks like impenetrable steep wall, enjoying every handhold and foothold, they are so good. I stopped again just above that to make another video and pictures because that viewpoint is perfect. You are not quite at the top but the ridge looks close enough.

I also noticed on my pictures later there is bypass path to avoid the Bad step on the north side of the ridge - I haven't paid attention to this before.

German Reunion

To my surprise the German couple reappeared, as I was making that video. I must have spent an unreasonable amount of time taking videos and pictures and wandering slowly because they had clearly caught up with me. I offered to take picture of them as the view was amazing, they returned the gesture and now I own something else than a selfie on that beautiful ridge. At the summit area we ended up chatting for a long time about mountains, Austrian resorts, and general European alpine admiration.

Eventually we said goodbye (again) and I dropped down towards Nethermost Pike and High Crag, because the views along that ridge are too good to ignore. Mountains stretching endlessly into the distance on the right side, ground not too rough so you can just keep staring at them and admiring, it is worth the 80 metres of height loss.

Then I headed back up to Helvellyn again.

Helvellyn - Sandwich, Sun, and Red Tarn

On Helvellyn I touched the trig and sat on the grassy edge above the big drop for a sandwich. It is a popular summit but it didn't feel crowded, groups were coming and going, nothing like Scafell Pike the day before. I stayed there far longer than intended. Shorts, vest, no wind, worried I might get sunburn. I knew this is rare. I’ve done this place three times now: first time soaked through, boot-flooded expedition, and twice as a postcard-perfect weather.

Red Tarn sat below, dark blue and still, and everything just went quiet in the way only high places manage. There was no urge to move quickly. Just pause. Seagulls occasionally breaking the silence.

Eventually I forced myself to move, which felt slightly unreasonable given how comfortable it was.

Swirral Edge, Catstye Cam, and Feet In Red Tarn

Negotiating rocky bits on Swirral Edge. Striding Edge straight in front of me in the distance.

Descending Swirral Edge I ended up sharing the route with a father and his teenage son. At one point he offered to take a photo, which I gladly accepted. Always good to have something other than 400 selfies at awkward arm angles.

Last August I went down and up Swirral Edge in the same day. Today I was just going down. Dry rock makes everything feel easy and enjoyable. From there I headed up Catstye Cam, then down again towards Red Tarn. Last time I did not have time to stop properly, so this time I did the full luxury version. Feet in the water, sunshine blazing, no wind, complete stillness. I genuinely wished I had a swimsuit.

I stayed there for over half an hour, which is probably the most committed piece of relaxation I have done in a long time. Eventually I packed up and headed down Glenridding Common, a route I had not used before. At some point I started jogging, partly for fun, partly to create my own breeze in the heat. Those new shoes La Sportiva, I cannot praise them enough.

Travellers Rest

At the Travellers Rest in Glenridding which conveniently right before the car park I stopped for a drink and a snack, then finally made my way back to the car. At 7 pm I reluctantly set off home, thinking the story was over.

It was not.

The Hitchhikers

Not long after I set off, on the A592 I spotted two people hitchhiking. No one was stopping. It is a narrow road, so I drove past, then stopped about 100 metres ahead right on the entrance of a small car park.

Looked back. The man was still signalling. I opened the door and waved them in, then quickly moved all the stuff I spilled over the seats. They were trying to get to Aira Force and I said "Perfect, I am headed that way, get in". She was originally from Brazil. They were friendly, slightly unsure of exact distances to their campervan, and very hopeful that it was parked at “the next place.”

It was not. We ended up chatting as I drove. After a few miles we eventually found their stop. They were surprised at how far it actually was. I suspect I saved them about an hour of very warm walking in humid conditions.

They left happy and I was happy that I helped them and I carried on my way smiling. Last year someone did the same for me after a long hike around Buttermere (30 km and 12 hours). It felt good to pass that on.